Ocracoke offers a remote, unplugged lifestyle by the sea
A unique Outer Banks lifestyle has developed on the remote island community of Ocracoke. Accessible only by public ferries, private boats and private planes, the community is supported by commercial fishing and seasonal tourism. Ocracoke Village is the main population center on Ocracoke Island. “We are like Nags Head 50 years ago, a really small island and great little community,” says Martha Garrish, Broker-in-Charge and Sales Manager at Ocracoke Island Realty and daughter of Irvin Garrish, for whom Ocracoke’s main road is named. “The oceanside is owned by the National Parks Service. It’s there for your use and absolutely beautiful, with no houses or development. We’re just different than the rest of the Outer Banks; there are some similarities because we’re all beach towns, but we have no big-box stores or fast-food restaurants. It is a different way of life. You need to be a hardy person to live here, but if you love it, you love it; there’s no other place for you,” Garrish says.
Most homes here are vacation rentals or second homes, but Ocracoke has a year-round population of about 700 residents. Every August, the Ocracoke Fig Festival brings the community together for square dancing, the traditional fig cake baking contest and plenty of fig-filled foods from local vendors. “I try not to leave the island as much as I can. I usually just go for doctor or dentist appointments,” Garrish says. “You can live here without leaving.” Ocracoke is not entertainment-central; the island’s appeal lies in its serenity, keeping some folks coming back every year for decades. “If you love it, it’s in your blood; you just keep coming back,” Garrish says. “I think we’ve got the prettiest beaches on the east coast. You can really unplug here – that’s what we have to offer.” The overall CAP Index Crime Score is 1 out of 10, the lowest possible score.
Ocracoke’s historic landmarks
Centuries before Ocracoke became a relaxation destination, it was known as a pirate hideaway. Amongst the southern live oak trees of Springer’s Point Preserve, the notorious pirate Blackbeard took his last breath in 1718. Today, chartered sport fishing boats have replaced pirate ships as the dominant sea-faring vessels in the area. Ocracoke Lighthouse, the oldest continuously operating lighthouse in the state and the second oldest in the country, welcomes all boats entering Silver Lake Harbor.
Navigating Ocracoke Island by ferry
The free Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry departs from the northern tip of the island, connecting drivers from Ocracoke to the northern stretch of the Outer Banks. It departs several times daily and takes about one hour. The ferries going to and from Cedar Island and Swan Quarter connect Ocracoke to the mainland. They depart from Silver Lake Harbor at the southern tip of Ocracoke Island. These ferries require a fee and a reservation, and each take between two and three hours. Sailboats, yachts and other watercraft also come in and out of Silver Lake Harbor, which has boat slips that accommodate vessels up to 80 feet long.
Highway 12, also called Irvin Garrish Highway, runs for about 13 miles along the entire island, connecting the two ferry terminals and offering sweeping views of the protected coastal land. For those traveling by air to and from the island, private planes can fly into Ocracoke Island Airport; otherwise, Coastal Carolina Regional Airport is about 90 miles away, which is a four-hour trip by car and ferry. Ocracoke Health Center is the community’s medical clinic, but the nearest hospital is 85 miles north in Nags Head, which is roughly a three-hour journey by car and ferry.
The residential core of Ocracoke is about one mile across; although there are no sidewalks, locals will often walk or bike around. Within the village, those over the age of 16 can drive golf carts on the street. In the summer, a free tram takes passengers throughout the village, stopping at tourist destinations, like Ocracoke Lighthouse.
Ocracoke’s shingle-sided coastal cottages
Along quiet residential roads without street markings, homes overlook trees, marshes and the Pamlico Sound. Although water views are abundant, there are no oceanfront properties: all residences are clustered around Silver Lake Harbor and the sound-facing side of the island. In standard Outer Banks style, the beach cottages of Ocracoke have wooden decks where rocking chairs sit and beach towels hang from the railings. Single and multistory homes rest on pilings to protect against flooding, with cars parked underneath. Single-family home prices range from about $500,000 to $800,000. Condos and multifamily residences cost between about $450,000 and $500,000. Some lots are for sale as well.
Protected beaches and coastal wildlife in Ocracoke
Ocracoke contains 16 miles of undeveloped beaches that are maintained by the National Park Service. Ocracoke’s wide beaches are more remote and less populated than the Nags Head area of the Outer Banks, so beachgoers are sure to find a spot for sunbathing, skimboarding or admiring the pink sunsets. Off-road vehicles with permits can drive along sandy beaches as well. Lifeguard Beach is about 2 miles from the village and is monitored by lifeguards in the summer. When it comes to land-based recreation, locals can play at the community tennis courts and baseball field. Hammock Hills Nature Trail loops through the pines and overlooks the sound and marshes.
At Pony Pen, folks can say hello to Ocracoke’s resident pony herd. Once free roaming, these descendants of shipwrecked Spanish mustangs have been fed by the National Park Service for the past several decades. Locals may also catch glimpses of other island wildlife: “There’s one deer near the ferry that hasn’t made it to the village yet,” Garrish says. “And we have beautiful birds and dolphins, and whales in the wintertime.”
Local dining and limited shopping on Ocracoke Island
Steps away from Silver Lake Harbor, Dajio offers Shrimp Hour every afternoon out on the patio, when peel-and-eat shrimp are served by the half-pound basket at special prices. Locals can also enjoy seafood and southern classics in the air-conditioned dining area. Howard’s Pub & Raw Bar is a casual hangout spot beloved by locals for the past 35 years, providing chowder made daily, a wide selection of beer and kids’ meals served on flying discs. Howard’s closes in the winter, as does Ocracoke Seafood Company, which sells local shellfish, tuna and other seasonal catches. Ocracoke Variety Store sells a bit of everything, from groceries to beach gear to hardware supplies. As the only grocery store on the island, it stays busy. “The variety store has everything you need, just not a lot of choices; it’s not like going to Wegmans, which has five different kinds of French salad dressing,” Garrish says. A wider variety of retailers is available about 70 miles south in Morehead City and 85 miles north in Nags Head.
Ocracoke School and Highway 12 rebuilt after Hurricane Dorian
Students in Ocracoke attend Hyde County Schools, a district rated B on Niche. Ocracoke School serves all grade levels and earns a C rating. The school, like much of the island’s infrastructure, had to be rebuilt after Hurricane Dorian made landfall in 2019. Storm surge and flooding from the Category 1 hurricane also damaged part of Highway 12, cutting off access to the Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry. Ocracoke was closed to visitors for three months while the main highway was rebuilt.
