Key takeaways
- Cleaning gutters, trimming overhanging branches and replacing cracked caulk around windows and doors are all tasks that become harder or impossible once temperatures drop.
- Demand for heating, ventilation and air-conditioning technicians and chimney sweeps spikes once cold weather arrives and discovering a broken furnace or a dirty flue on the first night you need heat turns a routine maintenance task into an expensive emergency.
- Replacing worn weatherstripping, adding attic insulation, sealing foundation cracks and installing foam gaskets behind outlet covers on exterior walls prevent heated air from escaping, while cleaning carpets, upholstery, rugs and appliance coils with the windows still open keeps dust, allergens and fire hazards from building up in a sealed home.
Fall arrives faster than many homeowners expect. While the temperatures are still mild, late summer in many parts of the country is a good time to begin preparing your home for cooler weather, shorter days and the eventual arrival of freezing conditions.
By planning early, you can spread out the work over several months and avoid the late fall rush when contractors are busier. The time you put in now could improve energy efficiency, save you costly repairs and increase home value.
Here is what to tackle before the season turns.
Prepare the yard and exterior
Hire an inspector to check the roof. Look for missing, cracked or curling shingles and inspect the flashing around chimneys, vents and skylights for gaps or rust. A small roof leak that goes unnoticed in fall can cause significant water damage once snow and ice accumulate.
Also ask the inspector to check the gutters if you're not able to get on a ladder. Leaves and debris from summer storms can already be clogging them. Clear them out now so you are not starting the season behind. Clogged gutters get worse with every storm and can lead to water damage along your roofline and foundation. If your home is surrounded by trees, plan to clean them again in late fall after the leaves have finished dropping.
From the ground, check your downspouts. Make sure they are carrying water several feet away from the house and add extensions if needed. Water pooling near the foundation can seep into the basement or crawl space and cause damage that is expensive to repair.
Walk the perimeter of the house. Check walkways and driveways for cracks that could worsen when water freezes and expands. Patch them while the weather is still warm enough for sealant to cure. Uneven pavement is also a trip hazard, especially on dark winter evenings.
Trim trees and shrubs. Cut back branches that hang over the roof, gutters or power lines. Heavy snow and ice can cause overhanging limbs to snap. Remove dead branches from trees near the house and clear any vegetation growing against the foundation or siding.
Take care of the lawn and garden while conditions are still favorable. Late summer and early fall are good times to aerate and overseed your lawn to give the shoots enough time to grow before the first frost. Rake leaves regularly or mulch them with a mower to return nutrients to the soil. Leaves left on the lawn can smother grass and create mold.
Add a fresh layer of mulch around garden beds and tree bases to insulate roots through the winter. Depending on your climate, fall is also a good time to plant overwintering vegetables — including herbs, carrots and parsnips — and cold-hardy flowers. Get them in the ground while there is still enough sun and warmth to establish roots.
If you have an irrigation system, late fall is the time to drain or blow out the lines before freezing temperatures arrive. Water left in the pipes can freeze, expand and crack the lines, resulting in a costly repair in the spring.
Clean outdoor furniture, grills and other items in the late fall before storing them for the season. If you do not have indoor storage, invest in weatherproof covers. Leaving furniture exposed to freezing rain, snow and ice will shorten its lifespan significantly.
Service your mechanical systems
The worst time to discover your furnace does not work is the first night you need it. Handle these tasks now, before demand for service calls spikes.
Schedule a professional furnace tune-up and inspection. Replace the filter, check the connections and make sure the system runs properly. A clean filter improves airflow, lowers energy costs and reduces strain on the system. If your furnace is more than 15 years old, ask the technician about its remaining lifespan and efficiency.
While the furnace is being serviced, check the ductwork in exposed areas like the basement, attic or crawl space. Look for gaps, loose connections or visible damage. Sealing leaks with mastic sealant or metal tape improves efficiency and lowers heating costs. Paying to heat a crawl space because of leaky ducts is an avoidable waste.
If you have a fireplace or wood-burning stove, get the flue cleaned and inspected now. Chimney sweeps book up fast once the weather turns cold, and a dirty flue is a fire hazard. Check the damper to make sure it opens and closes fully. Stock up on firewood and store it at least 20 feet from the house to avoid attracting pests.
Inspect the water heater. Flush the tank to remove sediment buildup, which reduces efficiency and shortens the unit's lifespan. Check the temperature setting. The Department of Energy recommends 120 degrees Fahrenheit for most households. Inspect the pressure relief valve and look for any signs of corrosion or leaks around the base.
Test every smoke and carbon monoxide detector in the house. Replace batteries and replace any unit that is more than 10 years old. Heating season increases the risk of carbon monoxide buildup, especially in homes with gas furnaces, fireplaces or attached garages.
Check interior and exterior light bulbs, including less-visited spaces like the attic, basement and garage. Shorter days mean more reliance on artificial light, and a burned-out bulb on a dark stairway is a safety issue. Consider swapping outdoor bulbs for motion-activated lights to improve security during longer nights.
Prepare for freezing temperatures by installing hose bib covers on outdoor spigots. Stock up on ice melt or sand for walkways. Drain and store garden hoses. Know where your main water shutoff valve is in case a pipe bursts. Insulate exposed pipes in unheated areas like the garage, crawl space or exterior walls. Foam pipe insulation is inexpensive and takes minutes to install.
If you have a programmable thermostat, update the schedule for fall and winter. Lower the temperature when you are asleep or away and set it to warm the house before you wake up. If you do not have a programmable or smart thermostat, installing one can reduce heating costs noticeably over the course of a season.
Seal the building envelope
Heated air escaping through gaps in the home's shell is one of the biggest sources of wasted energy in winter.
Check the seals on all exterior doors, including the door between the house and the garage. If you can see daylight or feel a draft around the edges, the weatherstripping needs to be replaced. Look at the bottom of each exterior door as well. A gap at the base lets cold air pour in at floor level, and a door sweep is a simple, inexpensive fix.
Inspect the foundation and caulk around windows, doors, siding joints and where utility lines enter the house. Replace any that is cracked, peeling or missing. Gaps in caulking let cold air in and heated air out, increasing energy costs, and provide an entryway for rodents.
Check the depth of your attic insulation. Heat rises, and an under-insulated attic lets it escape through the roof. The Department of Energy recommends R-38 to R-60 for most climates, which translates to roughly 10 to 14 inches of fiberglass batt insulation. Adding insulation to the attic is one of the most cost-effective energy improvements a homeowner can make.
Foam gaskets that fit behind outlet and switch plate covers on exterior walls can reduce drafts. They cost a few cents each and take seconds to install. In the basement and crawl space, look for cracks in the foundation walls and seal them with hydraulic cement or an appropriate sealant. Insulate rim joists, which are a common source of heat loss in older homes.
Do a deep clean while you still can
Before you seal up the house for winter, take advantage of the remaining mild days to do a thorough cleaning.
Open the windows and air out the house. Once the heat is on and the windows are shut for months, indoor air quality drops. A fall deep clean with the windows open is your last chance for fresh air circulation until spring.
Drag area rugs, throw pillows and furniture cushions outside and give them a good shake or beating. Cleaning soft furnishings inside a sealed house stirs up dust and allergens with nowhere to go. Deep clean carpets and upholstery as well. Allergens, dust mites and pet dander accumulate in soft surfaces over the summer. Cleaning them before the house is sealed for winter improves indoor air quality during the months when windows stay closed.
Pull the refrigerator, stove and dryer away from the wall. Dust buildup behind a dryer, in particular, is a fire hazard. Vacuum the refrigerator coils to keep the unit running efficiently.
Wash windows inside and out. Clean windows let in more natural light during the shorter days of fall and winter. While you are at it, inspect the glass and frames for cracked panes, failed seals or condensation between double-pane layers, which signals a broken seal that reduces insulation.
Reverse your ceiling fans. Most ceiling fans have a switch that changes the blade direction. In winter, running the fan clockwise on low pushes warm air that has risen to the ceiling back down into the room.
Clean and organize the garage. Move summer gear into storage and bring winter tools to the front: snow shovels, ice scrapers, salt and the snow blower. Make sure everything is accessible before the first storm.
Assemble a winter emergency kit
Power outages, ice storms and extended cold snaps can happen with little warning. Having supplies ready before they are needed is the difference between an inconvenience and a crisis.
Keep flashlights and extra batteries in an accessible location. A battery-powered or hand-crank radio is essential if the power goes out and you lose internet access. Store at least 72 hours' worth of bottled water and nonperishable food, along with a manual can opener. Keep extra blankets and warm clothing in an easy-to-reach spot. A fully charged portable phone charger, a first aid kit and any prescription medications should also be part of the kit.
Have your sump pump inspected and make sure its backup battery is working.
If you have a portable generator, make sure you have extra fuel stored safely outside the home. Never run a generator inside the house, garage or any enclosed space. Carbon monoxide from a generator is odorless and lethal.